On the second weekend in May Pam and I and GSK 116, our A-H 100M (replica,
some purists insist), joined a selection of the Scottish Sub-centre
contingent on their annual �Chasin� The Haggis� Tour. We had heard
rumours of this exclusive annual event over the past few years but, when
we heard that the venue included Flodigarry in the north of the Isle of
Skye, we decided to investigate more closely. Skye is our very favourite
place, especially since we have always been lucky in experiencing the best
weather necessary for the appreciation of this beautiful island on our
many holidays there, albeit the last being over a decade ago, so we
thought that a perfect way to renew our acquaintance would be in the good
company of fellow Healey-owners.
We joined Pam and Mike Jenkins from Ilkley at
Tebay Services on the M6 and set our mood by travelling to Stirling, after
lunching at Canonbie and then following the B709 from Langholm via
Innerleithen to rejoin the A7 on the outskirts of Edinburgh � 60 miles
of next to nothing except forest and wilderness scenery broken only by the
odd farming hamlet. Oh for such roads around Manchester!
Day
One. The following morning we
travelled from Stirling to the Roman Camp Hotel at Callander for the
breakfast start and I made my first mistake of the weekend by allowing Pam
enough time to undertake a close inspection of the hotel. Of course it was
exceptional and when she found that some of the Haggis Chasers had stayed
there overnight the question was raised as to why I had treated her to a
night in a Travel Lodge instead. Suffice it to say there was no
satisfactory answer and my account was running into debit. The event
organiser, Donald Gordon, unfurled and erected the new �Austin Healey
Club, Scotland� banner and the car park soon filled up with the
twenty-two entrants, all eager to commence their journey to Skye. We
renewed acquaintance with several familiar faces, started to meet new
ones, and were entertained at the antics of Messrs. Reid, Mackintosh,
Levy, Mathews, and Munn who had arrived attired in what I can only
describe as baby-grows for petrol heads. In fact they were period white
mechanics� overalls with suitably-applicable badges sewn on, as inspired
by their last visit to the Goodwood Revival Meeting. Donald was duly
inducted as the sixth member of the team by the presentation of his
overalls and the group were christened by one of the wags as the
�Ayrshire Painters�. Would they prove better painters than mechanics?
So in suitably light-hearted mood, and fortified by the bacon butties, we
were flagged away on a beautiful morning into the Highlands.
As our destination was some 235 miles away
Donalds� choice of route was somewhat restricted and therefore fairly
simple. But we managed to take a wrong turn beyond Tyndrum by heading
towards Rannoch Moor and Glen Coe rather than to the West and the coastal
route � our pleasure at following our usual route to Skye in such barmy
weather had lulled us into a false sense of security. Still, the mistake
was quickly noted and rectified by a lovely little diversion down Glen
Orchy. Over the Ballachulish Bridge and almost at the eagerly awaited
Onich Hotel lunch stop we came across Denis and Margaret Austin broken
down at the roadside. The majority of the Ayrshire Painters arrived
shortly afterwards and towed Denis the short remaining distance to the
hotel. We were amused to see Mr. Nunn taking his overalls OFF before
crawling under to attach the tow rope � obviously they must have been
expensive.
The Onich Hotel has a lovely setting beside the
sea loch, Loch Linnhe, and always provides a perfect photo opportunity
under good weather conditions. For us it was perfect. For Denis and
Margaret it was less so because all efforts to fix their broken dynamo
came to nought. Their only option was to ring the RAC and wait for them to
pronounce before deciding what to do. In fact they had to stay at Onich
for all three nights of the tour and conduct their own �chase�, by
telephone, for a replacement dynamo or bearing, only meeting up with us
again at the Muir of Ord on the third day. It was a shame that we were
deprived of their company for two days but these things happen and they
did accept their bad luck with good grace.
After lunch, the road to Skye via Fort William,
Invergarry, and the Kyle of Lochalsh. Beyond Invergarry the A87 is just
the most perfect road for Healeys with long straights, sweeping curves and
open vistas. In fact I believe it was voted the best driving road in GB in
both Car and Bike magazines, and it certainly didn�t disappoint despite,
for us at least, too much slow traffic. Passed the Five Sisters and the
Eilean Donan Castle and �over the bridge to Skye�. Not quite the same
ring to it as the song these days but I think they created quite a stylish
bridge and it does cut out those long delays in the busy periods. Then the
beautiful drive to Flodigarry, north of Staffin, skirting the Cuillin
Hills, through Sligachan and to Portree where we stopped at the Bakery for
tea and the famed (so we were assured by the Jenkins) carrot cake, only to
find the latter was sold out. Having driven so far for his treat Mike was
not to be deprived so he reserved four portions (not all for him) for the
same time the following day. Whilst finishing our tea and preparing for
the final leg of the journey we were amused to note the passing of Lynne
Reid and Linda Mackintosh in their Mercedes course car, not once but
several times, around the main square, the only square, in Portree. There
are only three roads out of Portree and one of those is the road they came
in on. With them bringing up the rear we carried on, passing The Old Man
of Storr, stopping to view the flat blue of the Sound of Raasay and the
Minch in the most perfect weather that Skye can offer, and passed Staffin
and the Quirang. And so to the first of two nights at the Flodigarry Hotel
and the end of a perfect day.
The Flodigarry has a most beautiful setting, in
the lee of the Quirang and overlooking Eilean Flodigarry and Staffin Bay
right across the Minch to Loch Gairloch on the mainland. It is set in a
little wooded valley which in Spring is covered in bluebells and
primroses. Unfortunately we were about a week or so early for the full
show but the primroses were just showing. Athur Levy in was particularly
impressed with the flora. I
hope that his specimens transplanted into his garden successfully. The
hotel itself has an historical connection with Bonnie Prince Charlie in
that Flora MacDonald, who helped him escape after the battle of Culloden,
used to live in a cottage on or near the site of the hotel. A recently
refurbished cottage in the grounds is now named after her and the
individual suites are named after each one of her seven children. Pam and
I can testify to the comfort of at least the �Anna� suite and it seems
everyone was well satisfied with their rooms. The food and service over
the two days was exceptionally good and we certainly hope to return there
soon.
And so to the end of day one, a most perfect day
except that we had not yet achieved our quest. We had not glimpsed or
smelt a haggis.
Day
two showed
the ever-changing face of Skye. There was a sea fret and the mountainous
backdrop was almost completely obscured by the mists. It was much cooler
than the previous day but at least it was dry with prospects of improving.
The morning drive was to the Skye Airstrip, between Broadford and Kyleakin,
where Donald had laid on a �tarmac mystery�. An arrangement of cones,
on the face of it very simply laid out, but, at least to some of us (yours
truly included), unfathomable at speed. How on earth did he manage to get
all those cones in his Frogeye � he never did tell us. Nevertheless the
main objective was achieved as we did our best to wear out the tarmac and
the grins were in direct proportion to the speed. Of the ladies only Joan
(Walker) took to the course, although that was perhaps because she was
tasked to regain the family honour having watched husband Ian spin out of
contention.
After lunch at Kyleakin the route took us to the
west coast and the northern loop of Skye, through Dunvegan, Carbost and
Uig and back to Flodigarry. We took a diversion to Glen Brittle on the
western edge of the Cuillins to re-view another special place and then
kept our appointment for, hopefully, free carrot cake in Portree (we
assumed that Mike Jenkins would pay and he did)! And so back to the
Flodigarry for another sumptuous meal and a treat in the form of an
after-dinner quiz arranged by Joan Walker. There were three quizzes. A
male-orientated set of questions, a selection of girly teasers, and a (the
genuine authentic) written driving test. We were mixed-up and split into
teams of six, single-sex of course, and spent a very amusing and not-a
little informative remainder of the evening. A girls� team bested the
driving test but could not maintain the momentum and were pipped on the
line by one of the boys� teams so overall I would say face was saved and
honours were even. For our team, if confronted by a similar quiz again,
our motto should be �read the questions carefully�. It was a super
evening and it allowed everyone to mix together some more. Our thanks to
Joan for arranging the diversion but we went to bed without really
addressing or pursuing the haggis � only one day left!
Day
Three showed us almost every
type of weather that Scotland has to offer. Flodigarry was misty again but
dry and after yet another sumptuous breakfast we headed south, over the
bridge, north-east passed
Loch Carron, then east at Achnasheen, and so to lunch at the Ord Hotel, at
Muir of Ord. The weather had improved throughout the morning and lunch
became a picnic in the gardens fronting the hotel with a clear view of the
famous distillery next door. As least someone�s quest had borne fruition
because Denis and Margaret Austin were there to greet us having succeeded
in their search for a dynamo.
After lunch a blast south down the A9 to
Kingussie, unable to enjoy the road because of the ever-present threat of
speed cameras and/or plod-volvos, but basking in the warm afternoon sun.
Then a turn to the west along the A86 and a rude awakening as the skies
got blacker and blacker and blacker. At Loch Laggan those with hoods
wilted under the challenge and stopped to put them up. Half-way along the
loch the storm hit, and did it hit! Pam was all for stopping because our
visibility was almost zero, but, without a hood, we would have been
drowned in seconds and I kept going figuring that following Mike
Jenkin�s tail lights was the preferred option. Ten minutes later we were
out of the eye of the storm and by the time we arrived at Onich the sun
was trying to break through again.
In the Onich Hotel car park we found out why the
Reids had really brought their Mercedes. The official excuse was that the
Northern Healey Centre had not finished Aladair�s car (hurry up Paul) in
time for the event. The real reason was that they needed to carry a
fully-stocked drinks bar in the boot and this would be difficult, although
for a Scotsman not impossible, in the boot of a 3000. The final
evening�s festivities commenced there and then and continued early into
the following morning.
The final evening meal was kicked off by Ronnie
Stevenson, a new face to us but a veteran haggis-chaser so we were told.
He had prepared a variation of Rabbie Burns� �Address to the
Haggis�, suitably tailored to suit Healey car buffs, which he gave with
what I can only describe as dramatic gusto. Apart from the odd word I
cannot pretend to have understood any of it. Of this I was ashamed until,
much later, Alasdair admitted that most of the Scots didn�t understand
it either. Perhaps a published translation might be called for. At this
point I should thank Ronnie, who missed the majority of the chase due to a
family commitment, because it was his cancellation that allowed Pam and I
our chance to attend.
An energetic grace delivered by Harley Weston
preceded yet another sumptuous meal and then, all too soon it seemed,
Donald called us to order for the final presentations. There were several
people with their heads down trying to avoid eye contact with Derek
Chadwick as he commenced what we were told was his traditional review of
the three days. Suffice it to say that he hadn�t missed much at all and
there were a few red faces and much mirth. Everyone was a winner and as
well as the memories we all received a lovely crystal glass momento to
treasure. After a final flourish in the bar most thoughts of the haggis
had gone, forgotten entirely in the balmy glow of a fine evening. And so
to bed, again without
achieving the quest.
The final morning weather beside Loch Linnhe was
perfect yet again and it was a wrench to say our goodbyes and commence the
drive home, although the prospect of Glen Coe, Rannoch Moor and Loch
Lomond went some way to lifting our spirits. Back home, reassured that our
dog didn�t resent us too much for having left him in kennels for five
days, and reflecting on a wonderful trip, a few thoughts occurred to me.
If the haggis is animal then perhaps the bits and
pieces of Scottish fauna stuck to the front of my car would go at least
part of the way to making up the ingredients for a small one.
Perhaps Pam and I, famed we are told for our
inability to partake of alcoholic drink, should turn to drink (Scottish
drink, Scotch, or indeed any drink) and then we could be more like the
Scottish contingent who (Ivor be careful here) couldn�t find their rears
in the dark, let alone hunt and capture a haggis, without it.
Or perhaps we did find the haggis after all.
Maybe it isn�t animal or vegetable or even mineral. Maybe it�s just
the memory of a wonderful time in a beautiful place with lovely people and
the vehicle for us sassenachs to remember Scotland and its trustees by.
Thank you Donald and Joyce for all your efforts and organising skills and
to all you other entrants for your convivial company.
Ivor Davies
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